Terroir on üks neist sõnadest, mille kõik veinimaailmas omaks võtavad, kuid mida see tegelikult tähendab? Ja kas see mõjutab tõesti veine, mida tootjad väidavad? Rupert Joy uuristab selle uurimiseks sügavalt
Terroir on üks neist sõnadest, mille kõik veinimaailmas omaks võtavad, kuid mida see tegelikult tähendab? Ja kas see mõjutab tõesti veine, mida tootjad väidavad? Rupert Joy uuristab selle uurimiseks sügavalt
rahvuslik küsija bobbi kristina pilt
Rhône'i põhjaosas Condrieust lõuna pool asub Château-Grillet 'väike apellatsioon. Selle 3,4 hektari suurused viinapuud loodusliku amfiteatri järskudel nõlvadel annavad väikese koguse veini samast viinamarjasordist ja mullast kui tema palju suurem naaber Condrieu. Kuid seda on alates 1936. aastast tunnustatud eraldi vahelduvvooluna ja seda müüakse palju rohkem. Selle omanik Isabelle Baratin-Canet rõhutab, et selle graniitpinnasest ja lõunasuunalisest pinnasest valmistatud veini originaalsust on tunnustatud sajandeid. Kuid mõned tema naabrid kahtlevad, kas Château-Grillet 'ja Condrieu terroiridel on selline erinevus.
Idee, et konkreetsed maatükid annavad eriti suurepäraseid veine, pole uus. Filosoof John Locke, kes külastas 1677. aastal Bordeaux't, märkis Château Haut-Brioni ‘mullas olevat eripära’, mis eristas teda naabritest. Abbot Arnouxi raamat, mis ilmus Londonis 1728. aastal, omistas Burgundias asuva Montracheti ülevuse Côte d'Ori kindlale maaribale.
Mis on tänapäevane nähtus, on sõna ‘terroir’ kasutamine idee kirjeldamiseks. Selle algupärased prantsuskeelsed varjundid olid pejoratiivsed. Kuni 20. sajandi keskpaigani tähendas vin terroité maalähedast maalähedast veini, millel on parimal juhul mingi yokeli võlu ja halvemal juhul vead. Goût de terroir'iga (terroiri maitsega) vein oli halvasti valmistatud vein, mis maitses küpsetest või mädanenud viinamarjadest. Terroiri kui positiivsema atribuudi idee tekkis alles vahelduvvoolusüsteemi sündides 1930. aastatel.
Igaühel on oma määratlus terroir. Võib-olla on kõige lihtsam Ameerika veinikirjaniku Matt Krameri oma, kes kirjeldab seda kui „mingisugust”. Enamik Prantsuse määratlusi, sealhulgas INAO (Prantsusmaa vahelduvvoolusüsteemi eest vastutav asutus) definitsioonid, sisaldavad nelja põhielementi: koha füüsilised omadused (eriti muld ja kokkupuude), kliima, kasutatud viinamarjasort ja inimese roll .
sinine varjund 2. osa
Vähesed vaidlustaksid aluspõhimõtte, et veinid saavad teatavaid omadusi nende viinamarjade kasvatamise kohast ja et inimesel on oma roll nende omaduste väljendamisel. Kuid arvestades, et peaaegu iga veinitootja väidab tänapäeval, et toodab terroiri austavaid veine, ja väidab, et ta suhtub mitte sekkumisse, on tarbijal igati põhjust mõelda, mida terroir praktikas tähendab.
ncis: los angeles, 9. hooaeg, 8. osa
Terroiri juured
Võib-olla seetõttu, et see sõna sarnaneb ‘maastik’, kipume seostama terroiri peamiselt mullaga. See omakorda võib soodustada arusaama, et veinid saavad maitse otseselt mullast, kus neid kasvatatakse.
Klassikaline näide on Chablis, üks maailma tuntumaid veine. Vaatamata sellele, et see on valmistatud kõikjal levinud viinamarjasordist, on Chardonnay Chablise väljendus erinev teistest piirkondadest. Kõige mainekamad veinid pärinevad eelajaloolistest austri kestadest koosnevast pehmest Kimmeridgi kriidimarglist.
Tootjad ja veinikirjanikud seovad sageli veini iseloomuliku tulekivijoodimaitse ja piirkonna geoloogia vahel. 'Kuidas muidu saate seletada Chablise jodeeritud märkmeid, kui mitte selle pinnase koostise järgi?' Küsib Bernard Billaud-Simon. 'Te ei leia seda maitset mujal kasvatatud Chardonnays.'
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Huvitavad Artiklid
