Ta ei ole üldiselt armastatud ja tema veinid ületavad enamikku meist, kuid Stephen Brook on tohutult väsimatu Lalou Bize-Leroy ees
Lalou Bize-Leroy näeb vaevalt teistsugune välja kui ta, kui ta tuli 1980ndate keskel Londonisse, et tutvustada Domaine de la Romanée-Conti veine, mille osaline omanik on ka tema perekond. Tal on kerge, päikesejooneline kuju, erksiniste hallide silmade ja juustega, mis on nüüd pigem hõbedased kui puhtad blondid. Tema riided on šikid, kuid alahinnatud. On täiesti usutav mõelda sellest nõtkest, trimmitud figuurist kui pühendunud kaljuronijast - see on ta olnud aastakümneid. Kuni üks peatub, et mõelda, et oma vanuses võiks ta puhata. Kuid mitte natuke sellest.
Bize-Leroy elab ja hingab Burgundia terroiri. Kuni 1988. aastani oli tema peamine mure perekondlik uusettevõtja Maison Leroy, mida ta siiani juhib, hoides Meursault keldreid varustatud miljoni pudeli peene Burgundiaga. Vanavanaisa rajas selle 1868. aastal, kuid just isa alustas vanade veinide varude kogumist alates 1919. aastast. 'Meil on veel mõned selle aastakäigu pudelid müügil.' Rääkimata igast suurepärasest aastakäigust. 'Minu isa põhitegevus oli Domaine de la Romanée-Conti juhtimine, nii et ta ei jõudnud kunagi ostetud veinide müümisele.' Bize-Leroy liitus temaga 1955. aastal.
Selline kogemus ja perspektiiv seab ta Burgundia hierarhias hirmuäratavale positsioonile. 'Mul pole kasvatajatega lepinguid ja alustan igal aastal nullist. Kui mulle vein meeldib, siis ostan selle. Kui ei, siis ma ei tee seda. ”Nii tohutute reservide kasutamisel ei tunne ta kohustust igal aastal osta.
Maison Leroy veinid on tohutult kallid, kuid tal on nende üle täielik uhkus. Ta maitseb vahemikku umbes kord aastas ja otsustab, mida välja anda, mida hoida. Sageli on vabanenud vanad aastakäigud, mille kollektsionäärid kiiresti napsavad, eriti USA-s ja Jaapanis. Talle kuulub ka 4 hektari suurune Domaine d’Auvenay St-Romainis, mida tema abikaasa Marcel Bize paar aastat tagasi surmani pidas. Nüüd juhib ta seda ise. Vaatamata tagasihoidlikule aadressile on Auvenay portfellis hulk grand grande, kuid kogused on minutid ja eraldiste järjekord on pikk.
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Huvitavad Artiklid
