Barolo 2009,
- Piemonte
Tom Maresca oli selles 2009. aasta maitsmises pettunud, viidates veinivalmistajate suutmatusele lahendada aastakäigu keerukust kui ühte selle 'kurva' näitamise põhjust.
„Vähesed 2009. aastad õigustasid oma pikaealisuse suhtes optimismi ja enamik tootjaid rääkis 2009. aastast kui lühiajalise joomise aastakäigust”
2009. aasta aastakäik Barolo seisavad tarbijad silmitsi mõne karmi tõe ja mõne karmi veiniga. Maitsesin mais Albas Nebbiolo Primas üle 200 Barolo 2009 näite. Enamikul ürituse viie päeva jooksul pakutavatest veinidest puudus mitte ainult klassikaline Nebbiolo värv, vaid sellel puudusid peaaegu mitte Nebbiolo aroomid ega maitsed.
Ma armastan Barolot ning austan ja imetlen paljusid selle tootjaid pühendumuse ja visiooni selguse eest. Ometi pean ütlema, et selles aastakäigus ei puudunud paljude nende esitusest lihtsalt puudust, vaid see oli nukker.
Muidugi oli erandeid: mitmed tootjad - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto - osutusid mõnele üsna joodavaks Baroloks. Mõni üksik - eriti Pio Cesare ja Massolino-Vigna Rionda - usub isegi oma veini vananemispotentsiaali. Kaupmehed ja ostjad, kes maitsesid valikut neist veinidest nädal varem kui ajakirjanikud, ja tootjad (mitte pimedad), kordasid seda arvamust sageli. Kuid minu maitse järgi - ja paljude ajakirjanike arvates, kellega ma rääkisin - näib, et enamik Barolo tegijaid on selle aastakäigu raskusi tõsiselt alahinnanud. Vähesed 2009. aastad õigustasid oma pikaealisuse suhtes optimismi ja enamik tootjaid rääkis 2009. aastast kui lühiajalise joomise aastakäigust.
Giacomo Conterno, Aldo Conterno veinitehas Monforte vallas, oli üks otsekohesematest tootjatest. Ta ütles: „2009. aasta oli viinamarjakasvataja aastakäik. Augusti lõpus olid mõned [Nebbiolo] viinapuud juba peaaegu küpsed ja mõned täiesti ebaküpsed - nende vahe oli peaaegu 30 päeva. See, mida te selle kohta tegite, määras kindlaks, millist veini teete. ”Consorzi hinnangul on selle aasta saagikoristus tavaliselt ülimalt hea:
„2009. aasta aastakäik jääb meelde ka ebakorrapärase küpsusmustri poolest. […] Tehnoloogilise küpsemise osas võib aastakäigu paigutada ajavahemikku 2003–2007. […] selle aastakäigu tulemusi ei parandanud saagikoristuse edasilükkamine alati. '
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