Bordeaux 2010 Lafite Rothschild
Mis see pong on? LINDA MURPHY uurib palju petetud, valesti mõistetud, kuid mõnel pool hinnatud Brettanomycesi maailma.
Oma veinikarjääri esimesel aastal valasin veini kogu maailma tipppudelite näitusel. Püstitusest vaheajal käisin toas ringi, et maitsta paljusid muid pakkumisi.
Kui naasin oma laua juurde, küsis minu kõrval asuv veinivalmistaja: 'Kas sulle midagi tõesti muljet avaldas?' 'Château de Beaucasteli 1989. aasta Châteauneuf-du-Pape,' vastasin. Ta naeris: 'Te peate Bretti armastama.' Kuigi ma ei teadnud, mis Brett - Brettanomyces (breh-tan-uh-MYE-sees) - tol ajal oli, jumaldasin Beaucasteli maalähedast, nahkjat, suitsutatud peekoni ja vürtsi iseloomu , lihavad viljad ja kindel struktuur.
Hiljem sain teada, et looduslikult esinev pärm Brett, mille tarbimine pole veel kahjulik, võib veini aroomide ja maitsetega teha nii häid kui halbu asju, oleks veinitootjate seas kuum teema, ilma et arutelus oleks selget võitjat.
Vintnerid nimetavad seda B-sõnaks ja parimal juhul võivad Brettanomyces anda veinile selle, mida paljud peavad keerukust ja sügavust lisavateks positiivseteks omadusteks: kinnasnaha, suitsuliha, peekonirasva, tubaka, trühvli, nelgi ja muu soolase maitsega vürtsid.
Kuid kui B muutub halvaks, võib see veinile anda aida, sõnniku, plaastrite, märja koera, higise hobuteki, hiire väljaheite ja antiseptilise aine haisva lõhna. Viimast kartes teevad paljud veinitootjad kogu maailmas kõik endast oleneva, et vältida Bretti saastumist.
Teised julgustavad sellest natuke, selle lisahuvi huvides, kuid peavad siiski vaeva nägema, et metsik pärm sordi iseloomu ja viljakust ei vallutaks. Teised, noh, ütleme nii, et kui puhtus on jumalakartuse kõrval, siis mõned veinivalmistajad ei käi kirikus. Need, kes väidavad, et on maitsetu villimise pärast goût de terroir, pelgalt vabandavad ebasanitaarseid tavasid.
Sõber või vaenlane?
Brettanomyces'il on mitu tüve ja teooriaid ning täielik arutelu nõuab mikrobioloogilist teesi. Kõige lihtsamalt öeldes on Brettiga identifitseeritud kaks veini muutvat ühendit: 4-etüülguaiakool (4-nt), mis aitab kaasa paljude arvates peekonile ja vürtsile ning 4-etüülfenool 4-ep) koos oma negatiivsete plaastritega; märja koera ja ravimite omadused.
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Huvitavad Artiklid
